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The #1 question asked to pro drivers is "How do I get sponsored?"
 
The first step once you have years of experience and are ready to respresent a brand is to write a good racing resume. Below is an article about how to do this orginally posted by Underground RC. Use this as an example when writing yours.
 
TUNING - ARTICLES -- UndergroundRC | Racing Community

How to Write a Race Resume for Sponsorship

With those new opportunities, and an advertising budget set aside by most companies to gain publicity, arises more chances to secure a spot as a representative who will be compensated for his work with products, or discounts on products. Being a sponsored driver is just like being an independent contractor.

The most common level of sponsorship is the ability to purchase equipment at a percentage discount of retail price. Because sponsored drivers are often expected to maintain their equipment regularly and attend larger events within their region, a sponsored driver rarely saves money. Instead, basic sponsorship helps to offset the cost of equipment and travel expenses. This is important to understand before you ever apply for sponsorship.

When you have grasped the concept of racing at the local level and have started to achieve success at a regional and state level, you might be ready to start applying to small companies, just to get your foot in the door. To appeal to a company, any company, regarding representing its likeness and products, you have to be able to outline what you can offer as a sponsored driver. The bigger the company, likely the bigger expectations they have for any prospects applying for a position on their racing team.

For example, a multiple-time world champion car manufacturer probably isn't the best place to start looking for a deal. Big companies generally want big results, AND a solid on- and off-track personality.

Creating a resume is a simple and professional method to supply this information to businesses at which you wish to apply. No fancy PowerPoint presentation needed, just a simple, basic listing of your qualifications (a picture or two of you with your cars and trophies won't hurt, but it's not necessary).

Being a sponsored driver is not only about winning races; yes, being competitive at the levels you intend to race at is definitely a plus, but your character on and off the track, and on internet message forums, will define your value to any possible sponsors. Having respected resources that can vouch for your worth as a sponsored driver is one of the most important tools of applying for sponsorship.

A couple ground rules before considering applying for sponsorship:
  • Expect to get as much as you can provide for your prospective sponsor. The company doesn't owe you anything.
  • Don't portray yourself as burnt out on the hobby and looking to get sponsored to revive your interest in racing.
  • A manufacturer who makes products in direct competition with what you currently use will not automatically sponsor you just so you will run their equipment. Many companies prefer to sponsor racers who have supported their products as a customer.

And lastly, don't burn bridges. Sending out your resume for the first time may not necessarily yield any sponsorship for the upcoming season, but will introduce your name to those who constantly scout for new talent. Applying for sponsorship is just as much about networking with different companies as it is about racing.

Good luck!

This is an example form for a race resume:

Introduction

Introduce yourself, and outline your goals within the hobby and for sending your resume to prospective sponsors. Include big races you plan to attend, your main focus for your involvement within R/C racing (hint: it should have something to do with having fun), and even the reason why you started racing in the first place. As with this entire resume, MAKE SURE YOU USE CORRECT SPELLING AND GRAMMAR. Nothing says "this means nothing to me" like not taking the time to proof-read your resume.

Personal Information
Name: First and last name
Birthdate: X/X/XX
Residence: XXXXXXXX
      XXXXXXXXX
Home Phone: (XXX) XXX-XXXX
E-mail address: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
ROAR Region XX, ROAR # XXXXXXX
Local tracks:
"Bullet" all of the local tracks in your area
Years racing: X
Current Sponsors: List any current sponsors you have and the amount of support you receive.
Example: Team Losi (100%), Trinity (100%), Novak Electronics (100%) .
Equipment: List equipment you use. Your car, motor/engine, electronics, fuel/batteries (for electric) and tires only.
Example: Team Losi 8IGHT, Trinity Platinum Edition .21 engine, Airtronics M8 with Novak synthesized equipment, Trinity Platinum 30% fuel and Team Losi tires..
Why I would make a good addition to your team
This is where you build yourself up. Talk about your strengths as a racer and as a company representative. It's always a good idea to be able to demonstrate progress and improvement. The more you have to offer, the more you can except to get in return.
Racing Highlights
Year (20XX)
- Name of the event (City, State)
- starting position, finishing position (Racing class)
Non-Racing Background
Outline any other hobbies outside of R/C. Unless your aspirations are to be a professional racer, companies usually look for well-rounded individuals who make time for other activities. List any other qualifications you may have, such as technical abilities, and any training (formal or otherwise) you may have received in a manner that would help you in your position as a team driver.
References
Include references within the R/C industry, at least 3 or 4 but no more than 5 or 6. Local sponsored racers and track/hobby shop owners are the best references.
First and last name - Contact information (phone numbers are more professional than e-mail addresses)

Published by UndergroundRC.com, April, 2007

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By popular demand, all Mugen MBX-8 Option Hop-Up Upgrade parts are now in stock at Dialed-RC Hobbies.
Common replacement parts are now in stock for the MBX8 and MBX7R/MBX7tR.
Flash Point mugen Options are now in stock for the X8, X7.
 
MUGE2156, MUGE2257, MUGE2145, MUGE2158, MUGE2251, MUGE2566, MUGE2565, MUGE2154, MUGE2422, MUGE2142, MUGE2253, MUGE2144, MUGE2021, FP2122, And more!
 
 

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The 2018 SOAR Seiki Racing 998 TD1R 1/8 Pro Buggy Kit [SSRS9981706-B] is in stock now!!!
MAP $599.99

5 years in the making, the new 2018 SOAR Seiki 998 TD1R 1/8 Pro Nitro off-Road Buggy Kit is finally here!
 
 In 2011, SOAR Seiki Racing was formed with 1 goal in mind - to produce the best 1/8th scale R/C buggy in the world that is capable of winning the IFMAR World Championships. In 2014, the first generation of the SOAR 998 buggy was released. After thorough testing in the real world, the 998 was completely revised and the SOAR 998 TD1 was released in 2016. Now for 2018, the very capable 998 TD1 buggy has had another major overhaul, resulting in the 998 TD1R. The TD1R may look the same, but nearly every single part has been redesigned and improved upon for more durability and better performance on the track.
 
 
 
Running changes during 2017 for improved durability on the 998 TD1: 
  • Larger satellite differential gears for more tooth contact, tighter gear mesh, and more consistent diff action
  • Harder plastic front & rear bulkheads to reduce stripping out the screw holes 
  • Softer plastic pill inserts to reduce the chance of cracking and also allow a tighter hinge pin fit for less slop in the suspension 
  • Harder plastic lower A-arms for improved handling and softer plastic A-arms available for cold weather racing 
  • Redesign rear uprights to survive hard impacts and crashes 
  • Redesign front upper arms to survive crashes and hard impacts 
  • Redesigned 7079 aluminum chassis to allow more engine adjustment for proper gear mesh with all engine brands
  • Black anodized lower pillow balls for longer life
  • Redesigned front upper arm outer rod ends and pillow balls for improved strength and suspension movement
  • 2mm Longer rear shock shafts for increased suspension down travel
  • Reshaped shock caps for improved membrane sealing
 
New parts for 2018:
  • Redesigned HT high traction limited slip differential gear cases for increased acceleration on high traction surfaces
  • 5mm Carbon Fiber short front shock tower to provide an extra 2.5mm of suspension down travel
  • 4mm Carbon Fiber short rear shock tower to provide 3mm of extra suspension travel
  • Hard anodized 7075 aluminum front suspension plates for increased durability
  • Front and rear CVD's for increased traction with universals still used for the center for maximum acceleration
  • Redesigned front steering blocks for increased durability and to allow the use of CVD's or universals
  • Redesigned Carbon Fiber front servo saver support plate to reduce chassis flex and allow an extra 2mm of additional caster adjustment
  • Redesigned Carbon Fiber front upper arm mounting plates for increased strength
  • Unique 1-piece lite weight adjustable wing mount for a lower center of gravity. Allows for standard height, +3mm, and +6mm for additional downforce on loose tracks
  • Small diameter brake caliper bolts with springs for smoother brake pad action and faster release
  • 20mm shock spring collars to allow the use of any 20-22mm diameter shock spring
  • 20mm lower shock spring perches to allow the use of 20mm diameter shock springs
  • 1.6mm/70mm/9T 4.93lbs black front shock springs
  • 1.6mm/86mm/10.75T 3.52lbs black rear shock springs
  • Ultimate shock bladders for constant rebound for a much more consistent shock feel even on the bumpiest tracks
  • Latex shock boots to reduce the chance of tearing 
  • Flat head down stop screws to reduce chassis wear 
  • Pre-cut TD1R high side bite lite weight lexan body
 
Features on the 2018 998 TD1R:
  • 3mm 7079 aluminum chassis
  • Carbon Fiber Shock towers
  • Carbon fiber front support plate
  • Carbon fiber upper arm mounting plates
  • Carbon fiber steering arm plates
  • 7075 adjustable toe/anti-squat suspension plates
  • 7075 ackerman plate
  • Vented steel brake rotors with metallic brake pads
  • DBS fully adjustable pillow ball V2 suspension system with adjustable front camber/caster/toe
  • 7075-T651 16.7mm big-bore shock absorbers
  • 1.2x8 hole tapered shock pistons
  • 1.6mm wire low frequency black coated shock springs
  • 2.3mm front and 2.7mm rear away bars
  • Front and Rear CVD drive shafts
  • Center Universal drive shafts
  • 13/46t lightweight steel clutch bell and spur gear
  • 13/44t lightweight ring and pinion gears 
  • Aluminum 3-shoe clutch system
  • 8x16 High-Speed rubber sealed ball bearings and 5x11 lightweight pinion gear bearings
  • Pre-Cut V3 lexan body
  • High downforce black plastic wing
  • Full wrap for wing and radio tray
  • 998 decal sheet
 
Required to complete kit:
Tools for assembly
Servos and aluminum servo arms 
Radio, batteries, and electronics
Engine, pipe, and fuel
Tires and wheels
Paint for body
Oil for air filter
Charger, ignitor, and starter box

 

 

 

 

 

 

Happy Racing!
Dialed-RC Hobbies
www.DialedHobbies.com

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Category: General
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VP-Pro Racing knurled locking 17mm capped wheel nuts for all 1/8th scale buggies & truggies now in stock. Keep dirt out of your axles & hubs and never loose a wheel again!

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Thunder Innovation releases their Pro-One 4 shoe clutch.  This 4 shoe clutch system is produced with very high quality CNC aluminum materials and includes 4 high grade clutch shoes, medium weighted 34mm flywheel, 3 clutch spring options ranging from .9mm to 1.1mm in diameter, engine collet and clutch nut.  This 4 shoe clutch system offers a much smoother power band and allows for much more control of the vehicle without sacrificing any bottom end.    
Thunder Innovations is exclusively distributed by VP Pro USA in the USA.  Dealer inquiries are welcome.

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Novarossi Engines are now in stock.

 

 

 

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Pro Tip of the day by Gene Hickerson - How to Glue 1/8 tires so they don't fall off during your race: 

 
 

This is aimed at racers who use James Racing Tires but applies to every brand of tires. I get complaints every week that James Tires don't stick and always fall off, so the rubber must be shit. I have only had my tires fall off a few times in the last 15 years, but I do the same procedure every time when I glue my tires because when I started racing 1/8 driving for Proline, my tires came unglued in the mains all the time back in 2001.

 
The very first pro tip I learned in 2002 was to dremel the wheels and clean the tire bead. That stopped 99% of my tire issues but I still had some come unglued. The reason was a bad bottle of glue. And occasionally I forgot to dremel the wheels and they would then come unglued.

Now I know what you are thinking, LOL no one dremels their wheels any more, that is old school and a waste of time. So let me explain why this is needed on James tires (an every other brand if the same circumstances apply). The tires come from the factory with mold release on the rubber. The first step is to clean the beads with the right stuff. Many pros say simple green works best but it depends on the compound. With James tires, non-chlorinated brake clean works better from my tests (I tried everything). But here is the Reason you Must dremel the wheels too with James Tires (also VP-Pro tires and Beta tires  - we had complaints about them also) - The tires are shipped in a sealed bag from the factory with the wheels in the same bag. While the tires are in the bag with the plastic rims, the mold release touches the wheels and soaks into the plastic. Now the rims are contaminated just like the tires. When you clean the tire bead (and even the rim bead) but do not dremel the rims, the mold release is still in the plastic wheel and the glue won't stick. So your tires fall off.
 
So here is an example of why you may need to dremel your wheels even if you drive for AKA or Proline or JC. You are packing for a big race. You put all your tires on your wheels and put them back in the bags or a zip lock bag to save space. Then when you get to the track, you pull them out and clean the bead as usual but do nothing to the wheels. Boom, your tires fall off and you can't figure out why. You try a different brand of glue or something else to clean the tire bead and they fall off again in the main. You try to put the blame on everything and everyone but really don't know what happened. The reason they fell off is the mold release got into the plastic rims while they were in the sealed bag, so the glue would not stick. The only fix is to dremel the rims before gluing.

Now if you never let your tires touch the wheels before cleaning them, you can get away with not dremeling the rims. But if you always dremel the rims, the glue always sticks better and you won't have this issue if the rims did contact the tires before being cleaned.
 
So my Tip is to always dremel the wheels and you will eliminate tire issues 99% of the time. It takes an extra 2 minutes to do but saves tons of headaches and wasted money on tires and entry fees with DNF's. Also get a Phin Design Tire Jig - it makes glueing simple and fast and use this Glue.
 
Dialed-RC Hobbies Team Manager,
Gene Hickerson

www.DialedHobbies.com

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DIALED-RC HOBBIES
1181 S. SUMTER BLVD #122
NORTH PORT, FL 34287, USA
Phone: (941) 706-7892


 

DIALED RC HOBBIES CLOSING SCHEDULE

We will be closed the following dates in 2019 for Races, Holidays, Vacations, ect.
Please note the dates and order accordingly.
Jan 21st, Feb 18th, Feb 27th, Mar 16th-24th, Apr 19th, May 24th-27th, Sep 19th-29th
Happy Racing!